The patterns on 70cm
height models (ladder ½) have been remade in the majority from authentic dresses
kindly landed and worn in the Var area.
At the occasion of several trips to the capital some upper
class women brought back the fashion from Paris. That fashion was spread out by
the dressmakers inspired by it to dress the local upper class.
Nevertheless since I was member of a provencal folk group I
was suppose to show the fashion concerning our region.
According to the social class, we were using textile,
fittings, lace and ribbons, more or less rich and luxuriant.
Considering the measurements of those epochs, the body was
tighter up in bonded corset (for a chest measurement of 86/90cm, the size of the
waist was not more than 55cm sometimes even less) I had to make my own models to
be able to respect the norms.
I had a very difficult time to find and buy the textiles : a
lot were made of silk, brocaded taffeta with motifs and shades that doesn’t
So I choose shades the most similar, and looked for small
motifs for small size models.
Of course I respected the way of gathering (on everything
showing) of each epoch.
The lining was made of cotton, a lot in indienne (textile of
cotton with small motifs style Liberty), sometimes in silk, and once in the
while made with what I got handy that means several materials recuperated on old
cotton clothes or taffeta, and put together in real patchworks.
In order give them an aspect of epoch I had to make searching
concerning the underwear’s allowing to hold the dresses : hoops, crinolines,
petticoats, shape, etc..